Hang Pagoda - Tra Vinh

Hang Pagoda, known as Kompông Chrây in Khmer, is a famous Theravada Buddhist temple located in Cluster 3, Chau Thanh town, just about 5 km south of Tra Vinh city, along National Highway 54.

Location and Long History

Hang Pagoda has a long history deeply connected to the life of the Khmer community here. Built in 1637, the temple originally faced east, overlooking the Long Binh river, where there was a convenient boat dock near the banyan tree for villagers from nearby Khmer hamlets to come and listen to sermons and pray. Therefore, it was also called Wat Kompong Ch’rây – or the Pagoda at the Banyan Tree Dock. Over its more than 380 years of formation and development, the temple has seen 22 generations of abbots. However, in 1968, during the Tet Offensive, the temple was heavily bombed. It was not until 1977 that Monk Thach Suong, the 23rd abbot, returned and led the community in restoring the temple, making it as grand as it is today.

What makes this temple distinctive and easily recognizable is its western side gate, which faces Provincial Route 36 (now National Highway 54). It is known as Hang Pagoda (Cave Pagoda) because the gate is built in the form of three adjacent caves. The middle gate is a large cave, and the two side gates are smaller caves. All three gates are built very solidly, with walls up to 12 meters thick, giving the feeling of entering a natural cave.

Unique Architecture

The main gate of the pagoda attracts visitors not only for its unique beauty but also for its profound meaning. The arched design of the gate, with three connected gates resembling a cave system, is not only an artistic highlight but also a testament to the continuity between Brahmanism and Theravada Buddhism in Khmer culture. In the past, Brahmin monks often meditated in secluded caves, and this design reflects the connection between the two religious cultures, combining the grandeur of Buddhism with the tranquility of meditation spaces.

Stepping through the pagoda gate, you will immediately feel a serene and mystical space, as if time and space have come to a standstill. This is where we will explore the rich history, culture, and religion of Tra Vinh, where the Khmer people have preserved their spiritual values for centuries.

Proceeding inside, the prominent structure is the main hall of Hang Pagoda. Built on elevated ground, the main hall is reached by many steps, giving it a majestic and splendid appearance. The roof is designed with multiple layers stacked on each other, topped by a tall spire, creating an impressive sight. Inside the main hall, you will see two rows of grand columns, with various statues of Buddha Shakyamuni in different poses, especially a large statue of Buddha Shakyamuni placed high up, emanating peace and tranquility throughout the space.

Moving forward to the guesthouse and monks' quarters, you will see a flagpole tower with a relief sculpture of a seven-headed naga. On either side of the flagpole tower are two 12-spoke wheels symbolizing the twelve links of dependent origination, an important Buddhist concept representing the continuous cycle of birth, death, and rebirth.

Facing the main hall is a complex of statues representing the twelve zodiac animals, arranged in a semicircle. The statues are meticulously carved, with pairs of dragons swirling like boats, their heads held high on two pillars adorned with reliefs of Yakshas – protective deities. These images are familiar to the Khmer people, corresponding to the zodiac animals in the cycle of years, from the Rat to the Ox, Tiger, and Cat to the Dragon.

On the right side are statues of deities riding a goat, monkey, rooster, dog, and a deity riding a pig. In the center are statues of deities riding a naga head and a horse, with a four-faced tower architecture supported by Kinnari goddesses, and on top are statues of eight Buddhas with hands clasped in prayer. These details not only showcase the grandeur of Buddhism but also deeply connect with the Khmer culture and beliefs.
You see, Hang Pagoda is not just a religious structure, but also a treasure trove of Buddhist art and culture. Each sculpture and detail in the temple tells a historical story, a profound spiritual message. Visiting here, you not only admire the architectural beauty but also feel the peace and tranquility the temple brings to everyone.

Education and Preservation

Hang Pagoda is not just a simple Theravada Buddhist temple but also a cultural and educational center for the Khmer community in Tra Vinh. Besides its role as a place of worship, the pagoda is also a place for learning, moral education, and the preservation of traditional Khmer arts and culture. The pagoda grounds include a large school where Khmer children are taught the values, culture, and language of their people. There are also about twenty small stilt houses, each sufficient for one person, where locals frequently come to pray, practice, and find peace.

Unique Features

Although not the largest temple in Tra Vinh province, Hang Pagoda attracts visitors from near and far with its unique and captivating features. This includes an art wood carving workshop that has been in operation for nearly 30 years, where talented artisans create exquisite carvings from wood, gaining recognition in the Vietnamese art market. The products from this workshop are varied, from Buddha statues and deities to images rich in Khmer culture, and visitors can purchase or order pieces they like.

Another unique feature of Hang Pagoda is its strictly protected bird sanctuary. The 7-hectare temple grounds are essentially a primeval forest with endemic plant species such as sao, dầu, bamboo, and trúc, creating a rich and valuable ecosystem. Previously, this forest was home to many fruit bats, but they left after the forest was destroyed during the war. However, since the 1990s, the temple grounds have become a gathering place for thousands of birds, mainly white storks, Asian openbills, red-necked storks, and herons. Loved and protected by humans, these birds have become bolder, making nests not only in the forest but also in newly planted trees in front of the main hall and monks' quarters.

Visiting Hang Pagoda, you will have the opportunity to witness the beautiful scenes of flocks of birds flying out in the early morning to find food and returning to their nests in the evening, bringing food to their young. This sight creates a bustling, lively atmosphere for a serene forest temple.

After exploring Hang Pagoda, admiring the Buddha statues, visiting the wood carving workshop, and learning about the art pieces, you can spend some time relaxing on the benches scattered around the main hall. While there, you can immerse yourself in the temple's tranquil atmosphere, enjoy the birdsong, watch the flocks of birds flying in the sky, and feel the peace that comes from the harmony of spiritual culture and nature.

Conclusion

With nearly 150 Khmer pagodas and more than 60 temples of the Kinh and Chinese people, Tra Vinh is truly a Buddhist land where you can immerse yourself in the unique spiritual culture. It is an ideal destination for those who love exploring culture, religion, and admiring the unique architectural works of the Khmer people. We hope that what Tatinta shares today will help you fully appreciate the beauty of Hang Pagoda. Wishing you unforgettable and meaningful experiences here!

Information:
• Ticket price: Free
• Opening hours: 7 AM - 7 PM, all days of the week